Draw the shape
From above, a kitchen is usually one of a few shapes: a single run, two facing runs (a galley), an L, a U, or any of these with an island or peninsula. Sketch yours on paper. Precision doesn't matter, but the shape and which walls the worktops sit against do.
Measure the runs
- Measure each run along the back wall, from end to end or from the wall to where the worktop stops beside a tall unit or the cooker.
- Where two runs meet in a corner, measure both along the wall into the corner.
- Note the depth. Most worktops sit on 600 mm units and overhang the doors a little; if yours are deeper or shallower, say so.
- For an island, measure its length and width and any seating overhang you want.
Mark the openings
On the sketch, mark the centre of the sink and hob, any windows above the worktop, the tap position, and any freestanding cooker or tall housing that breaks the run. If you already have the sink and hob, write down the make and model; the openings are cut from the manufacturer's templates.
Photos that help
- The whole kitchen from the doorway.
- Each run straight on.
- The sink and hob.
- How we get from the street to the kitchen: steps, stairs, narrow halls.
What happens to your measurements
Your sizes give us enough for a quote. If you decide to proceed, we measure precisely at templating, with the units in and level, and cut from our measurements rather than your sketch. The templating guide explains that visit.
Questions we are asked
Should I measure in metres or millimetres?
Either is fine for a first price. Millimetres avoid confusion, and worktops are always made in millimetres.
What if my walls aren't straight?
Very few are, especially in older Cambridge houses. That is exactly why we template before cutting.
Can I send a kitchen planner's drawing?
Yes, and it helps. Send it with photos of the room as it is now.